Ford News

I am looking into purchasing a 2003 lx sport wanted to know if anyone can give some advise on what to look for. I noticed the rear of the car leans and the seems to be a pump of sort that goes off every so often. any help would be much appreciated

The rear shocks on my 2005 CVPI are ready to be replaced; the left one is getting bouncy and the right one has leaked pretty much all it’s fluid out and is useless. I’m wondering just how good/bad the Monroe Severe Service shocks are. I want the KYB Gas-a-Just but they’re about twice the price and require an extra mounting kit. Is it worth it to get them or will the Monroes suffice?

The light came on the dash today(‘99 grand marquis). I had to turn the car off and back on to get it to turn off.

When it was on the car engine light came on for a split second while I was racing the engine to see if that would get it to turn off. It was idling strangely too but after I shut the car off and back on everything was fine.

Will it come back?

I read it could be Throttle Position Sensor going bad..

This has been an ongoing problem for about 9 months now and I’ve discussed it here before, but maybe I can get some fresh ideas since I just can’t get a diagnosis on the problem.

The problem is sporadic, sometimes going a couple of weeks in between episodes, but somewhere at the 40-50mph speed, between 3rd gear and overdrive, and usually on a slight upgrade, the car jumps as it decides whether or not to stay in 3rd or shift for more power. The jerking effect can be so severe that it stalls the car. I’ve taken it for a diagnosis test at a transmission place but I can’t duplicate the problem for them. There are no codes showing, and the transmission fluid was changed last year, with a friction modifier additive. Best guesses have been torque convertor and/or solenoid, fuel pump (that tests fine), throttle position sensor (again, no codes), egr system (all replaced and throttle body cleaned) and overall tune-up, which has also been done. I really don’t mind having to spend the money on the transmission work but don’t want to do it if the problem lies elsewhere. Any suggestions out there what my next step should be? I need to rely on the car for long trips and right now I don’t have the confidence.

okay so i took my wheel off to change my balljoints and i hadnt really done an inspection of them yet and when i did they were still really good…i thought the squeking was comin from there but when i really looked its coming from my control arm bushings…would like to change them myself but one of the bolts are gonna be blocked so not sure if i should just it somewhere

I just bought an old crown vic 1987 wagon for $500 and i just want to do somethin crazy to it. i know that’s what half you guys like to do and have already done. fill me in. i want very cheap performance upgrades and i want simple tricks to improve reliability. who has what to bring to the plate?:bowd: also i need to paint it. i like some rat rod styles which is less common with this car but whatev. i’m already starting my amatuer bondo job

okay so i bought some ball joints from rockauto.com..gotta love that site i saved a bunch a money..ill have no problem putting them on myself im just wondering would any special tools help me besides a ball joint seperator…

my left front has a bad vibration between 60 and 70..i think its the pitman arm but i dont wanna change it if its not..the guy i bought it from just had the tires put on so im pretty sure they balanced them but im not sure

Can someone take me thru the steps on replacing this pulley, also can a wobbelypulley cause my car to shudder at 50 mph

When this first started happening, the car would go into "limp mode". Sometimes, if you hit a hard bump or rumble strips on the road, the light would come on and you were creeping along. Sometimes after that happened you could hit the rumble strips again and it would go back to normal. There is a reset button in the glove box, but now does nothing. This time, after mom had new tires mounted the light came on and stayed, but the car still runs fine. Would this be a bad sensor, and if so where is that sensor located? If the reset button is not working is that a sensor or is there a relay of some type? I would assume this is the same sensor for the ABS too, so is there one on each rear wheel? The local Ford dealer has not been able to find a problem, even drove the car but couldn’t replicate the issue. I do know that she has some warped rotor and it feels like the fronts, but this was an issue before the brakes. I have not worked on this car, it has always been dealer serviced (it was my fathers and mom kept it after he died) that’s what bothers me. I know dealers can’t work miracles, it just seems with todays electronics, that would not be that big of an issue. Would that not kick a code? What about removing the negative cable and holding the brake pedal for 30 seconds to clear the computer or just unhooking both battery cables?
Thanks.