Ford News

I have a 2006 Ford Escape XLT 4WD, 2.3L 4 cylinder, automatic transmission.

High parasitic (no key) battery current drain. 240mA all the time.

The problem is battery dies when car isn’t used in more than a week. Not a problem if driven every day.

I measure battery current and found parasitic drain current to be 240mA or 0.24A of constant draw. The car spec on AlldataDIY is 50mA max.

I do have a remote start installed but I removed that and current only dropped about 10-15mA so not enough to matter.

I did leave the car for a couple hours thinking some of the logic circuit would drop in power over time as they fell into low power sleep modes. I didn’t happen. When you first connect battery current spike up to 1.5A and then drops to the 240mA about 30 seconds later (when radio display goes blank). It never goes low than this, even hours later.

I did find the current is on the two legs on the battery box served by fuse F19 and F21. If I pull both of these fuses the current falls to zero.

I am sure it isn’t leakage at the alternator as well. I disconnected the wire to the alternator thinking leaky diodes/rectifiers where the path of leaky current. It made no difference. There was no measureable leakage current through the alternator.

A few questions:

• Could AlldataDIY just have it wrong and the key off current really is 200-220mA for this car?
• The wiring diagrams are vague on AlldataDIY when it comes to the logic circuits. Its hard to say which lines should use how much current. Is there a way to get more detail and how my 200+ mA current should be broken down?
• The radio alone seems to be 70 mA by itself which is over the 50mA alone.

Any ideas or suggestions appreciated. Obviously this is a subtle problem because there isn’t an obvious or horrendous current drain. It’s still a problem though.

the shifter is in park but the dash readout says its still in drive and the car wont start….changing the position of the shifter doesn’t change anything . car wont start when the shifter is in neutral or park ….my obd tool wont connect to the computer to check for error codes..the dealer called and they don’t know whats wrong and they cant connect to the computer either….when I couldn’t start the car I did jumper the battery and wrongly connected the terminals briefly in case that matters here….the battery shows full charge no check lights or alt lights before it died..I drove the car 200 miles parked it the driveway and came back 5 minutes later and it wouldn’t start…any help greatly appreciated………….Wayne

I was backing out of the store yesterday and my 2006 Ford Escape seem to shutter as I was backing out. I put it in drive and it drove home fine. I went to leave later and when i backed up the truck shuttered again until I put it into drive. I shuttered for a few seconds and then drove down to the stop sign, probably 100 yards. I out it into park and then into drive and the the engine revved up but the gears didn’t engage. I pushed it back home and let ti sit for 20 minutes. Came back out, started it and out it in reverse and it backed up fine and then when I put it into drive it went forward. I parked it for a minute and then tried to drive off, but again engine revved but truck didnt move in any gear, reverse, drive 1st or 2nd. Also tried engaging the overdrive just to see if that didnt anything and it didn’t. Friend told me the transmission is dying and I need to have it replaced. Anyone else encounter this problem?

Gentlemen,
I have an ‘06 Escape that I recently bought from a relative that has 80,000 miles. It was bought from a dealer previous to the relative, so it’s history is not complete. It recently started lighting both the "ABS" and "4WD" trouble lights. This happened after a rain and both at the same time, and persists intermittently now. The "4WD" blinks then goes away for a few minutes, apparently meaning a temporary problem. The ABS stays lit, then both lights go away at shutdown for awhile it seems.
My thought, is that the sensors are the same that tell ABS and 4WD to engage when the sensors detect wheel slippage. They may be failing, or still wet somehow, and this is what is causing the trouble lights to appear. I’m wondering if I replace the sensors if that will make the problem go away. I have a Haynes manual for the Escape, which I like. However they recommend going to the dealer for these kinds of problems. I always try and avoid getting ABS for this very reason – the complexity factor. Any thoughts you might have would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Dave

I’m hoping that someone can help me with this. On my wife’s 2005 mariner after changing the batter the power windows stopped working. At first we could roll down one window and then we could not roll down or up any windows. Now we can roll up the passenger window but that is it. I have checked all the fuses and I really want to check the relays in the power distribution box but i don’t know what to check. The manual dosn’t mention power windows at all in the box.

Does anyone know

1) What would cause this?

2) What relay to check in the power distribution box?

Thank you,

-Nick

We just toook delivery of a used ‘08 Mariner Hyrbid w/ 34k miles.

After the first couple of weeks we are only achieving about 24.5 mpg in non-Interstate driving. We live in SC so itis rather warm and cold batteries are not a factor.

We have not checked with the dealer and I figured I solicit feedback from other owners first.

Is there anything that needs to be observed as far as driving style is concerned given that my wife had been driving a V8 SUV for the past few years?:driver:

I have a 2009 Ford Escape, which I bought used with only 5000 miles. I love this vehicle, but I have noticed that just PLAIN WATER leaves stains on the seats! This doesn’t seem right. It rained pretty hard the other night and after getting into the vehicle, I noticed that there were spots from the rain. I assumed they would go away after they dried, but they are still there!

I had seen that there was a issue with cloth seats on older models. Does anyone else have this problem? Or does anyone know if there is a solution to fix it?

Thanks

Hoping someone can help. I purchased an 05 Mariner Premier for my daughter the problem I’m having is I can’t program the Key fob or the Keypad due to an after market alarm that the previous owner had installed. Is there a way to bypass the alarm myself so I can use the ford keyfobs and keypad or do I have to go to an alarm store to get it done. Thank You in advance for any guidance.

Running boards, nerf bars, step bars, etc. Which are best and strongest? Is Westin good? These will be used to get to roof of vehicles mostly for wash and waxing. Do these install as easily as they say at the websites? Are the bolt-on holes methods durable? Ideas? TIA

AM

Can anyone please post the steps to program a 3-button remote on a 2007 Mercury Mariner? The dealership only gave me one remote fob but I kept one of my trade-in’s (2004 Ford Freestar) fobs and it may just work. I’d like to try it anyway. But I think it’s ridiculous that websites are trying to charge you for these steps. They were freely available for my Mazdas in those forums. I thought maybe someone could share them here. I did an extensive search of the web with no good results. TIA,

AM