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Hey i was wondering does anyone know how to fix the AT/shifter in the truck when i put it in park its in between Park and Reverse was wondering if anyone had this issue and how they fixed it,and when i do put it there its in park? thanks for the help if anyone does help :priest:

I just changed th clucth, but I realise my clutch do not disengage when I start back, probably my clutch adjustment… But here my problem see the image I remove this bot and presently I’m not able to put it back, what’s their utility ? and how it’s possible to put it back… I’ve try for an hour to screw it.

Thank you, I need my truck for work… Thank you for your answer.:bowd::bowd::BW::BW:

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I have a 89 Ranger. 2.3L (dual spark plug), manual trans. so, whats happening is sometimes i cant get it in and out of gear.. i believe what is actually happening is when i dont let off of the clutch all the way and then push it back down to the floor, i dont think the clutch is fully releasing (or atleast thats what it seems like). maybe it has nothing to do with the clutch releasing, but thats my observation. it seems to do fine if i fully let up on the clutch while its in gear, but if i’m not moving very much or holding on a hill then i cant just let up on the clutch. its just something that i find very annoying, but i can deal with if its gonna be a major repair. any help or suggestions would be appreciated. this is the 1st car with a manual trans i’ve owned, so i dont really know much about how it all works yet. but i will do my best to get more info if needed.. oh, and also when this is happening if i let up on the brake its like its in gear (it moves forward slowly, which is mainly why i’m thinking the clutch isnt releasing all the way).

thanks for help in advance

Hello again,
I have another question (actually a few) and any insight would be greatly appreciated.
So my serp belt (I thought anyway) was chirping and it was really loud and annoying, so I checked it out and it was in O.K. shape, but I replaced it anyway. Stupidly, I didn’t check any of the pulleys because I figured it was the belt. Start it back up and it is still chirping at me. You think it’s one of the pulleys? The noise sounds like its coming from somewhere near the coil pack??? Maybe not though. How hard is it to replace a pulley? BTW It’s a 2003 Ford Ranger 3.0 if that helps.

My other question is about the fuel pump. If I take my truck on the interstate (actually it seems anything above 3,000 RPM will do it), it starts to… well hiccup would be a good way to put it. It really startles you, as you’ll be going fine and at random it will just suddenly seems like it lost fuel or something – it feels like I let off the gas and slammed on the brakes within a second :wtf2:. I thought maybe I had water in the fuel so I replaced the fuel filter and ran some Lucas fuel treatment through it, but I still have the same problem.

Any advice would be great, since I’m not anything close to a mechanic. Thanks for reading.

Hiya everyone, first post here.
I have a 2003 ranger 4.0L V6, I just used a SuperChip to tune my truck ( I also have a throttle body spacer and K&N ram air intake) After I changed the settings my truck has been running like a freakin champ!
One thing that the SuperChip booklet says is that I will have the code p100 on constantly until I can get all the diagnostics run on the computer, my guess is doing the drive times (like 10 minutes at 3k rpm, get off the freeway idle for 5 then shutdown/cooldown) BUT! I have no idea what the steps are to truly reset it.
Now, I have a code… can’t think of it but it says that I’m running too lean and I take it, it’s saying that because I haven’t run it enough to get all of the calculations it is needed to run properly.

If anyone knows the required drive time to reset, or any tips I’d sure appreciate it!!

I am a newbie and need some expertise

1989 Ford Ranger 4 Cyl 2.3L, 5speed 4X2 Dual plug ignition

The induction side spark plugs are not firing at all at any time.
The engine runs continuously on the right side spark plugs.
My KOEO codes are:
33 – EGR Valve opening not detected
41 – No HEGO switch detected
88 – Loss of Dual Plug input Control
My Engine Running codes are:
98 – Hard Fault Present
88 – Loss of Dual Plug input Control

What I have accomplished so far:
New Plugs
New Wires
New ( both) coil packs
New DIS Ignition Module

Still the driver’s side coil pack does not produce a spark.:BW:

The quick connector harness wires that plug into the driver’s side coil pack don’t appear to have any electrical current flowing while the truck is running.

The hard fault code (98) is probably referring to code 88.

How can i troubleshoot further back to find the problem? :1read:

What is the procedure for removing the spindle nut on a 95 Ranger 4×4? I believe that it is a Dana 35 axle. It came from the factory with Auto hubs, but now has Warn manual hubs. From what I understand, the innards are the same. Is there a lock ring somewhere behind the nut? Is any other tool required other than a spindle nut socket? Does the axle need to be held in place while loosening or tightening the nut? Thanks in advance for any info.

My interior truck lights having randomly been staying on when I leave and lock the truck. It used to be that i would have to shut the door harder for them to turn off but recently even slaming them has no effect. The past couple times i have had to remove the lights so that my battery wont die. A newer problem is now the remote locks wont work and i have to lock the truck manually. I got a new remote to see if the battery in the old one was just dead but they still wont lock. Any suggestions?

Done everything by the book (13 times) over again .
I thru a timing belt off and was trailerd home and have been working on this thing for 2 days.
Have lined all 3 marks up many times.
But it still won’t pull a sick w###e out of bed.
I’m old and just about to junk it cause it’s hot out.

What’s the answer?
RichardKCMo

My truck really jumps when going over bumps on the highway.
It makes the whole cab lift me off the seat and it’s ruining my kidneys.
hehe!
Is this normal when the bed is not weighted down with cargo?
Or, what can fix this, new shocks?